1.2.3 Casualty evacuation techniques Lower casualty on their own system with additional belay
Where the casualty ’ s climbing system is intact and their rope is long enough to reach the ground , it is preferable to use the casualty ’ s system to lower them to the ground . This reduces the number of transitions that must be conducted and keeps the rescuer ’ s climbing systems entirely separate so that the rescuer can perform other actions if required . If the casualty is conscious and able to control their system , this setup will become an assisted self-rescue .
The casualty may be using a Moving Rope Technique ( MRT ) system . MRT systems are discussed in Chapter 2.2.3 of this document . If the casualty is using an MRT system , their tail length ( distance of rope below the casualty ) must be twice their current height in order to reach the ground . If there is any doubt , pull up the tail of the rope until you are holding the end : if the resulting bight of rope reaches the ground then it will be possible to lower the casualty on their own system .
Options for casualty belay
1 . Connected via textile sling or adjustable lanyard to the attachment point on the rescuer ’ s harness where the rescuer ’ s main descent device is attached ( pictured ). The sling should be adjusted to be as taut as is comfortable , and can be used to ensure that the casualty ’ s system is always within reach .
2 . Install a separate belay line for the casualty . This may be ground-belayed , top-belayed , or a separate ASAP or similar auto-belay device may be installed for the casualty .
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